It’s Paris Fashion Week! Which means many of the most fabled and influential fashion houses are debuting their collections for spring 2023. The week is still in progress, but it’s clear that jewelry’s been an important element in many of the higher profile shows in Paris, and in general we’re seeing a slight sea change: less layering of jewelry (think “arm parties” and “neck messes”) and more focus on single, voluminous pieces, say a chunky bracelet, gorgeous bib necklace, or colorful cocktail ring.
Here’s how are a handful of top fashion houses have gilded their freshest ensembles this week in the City of Lights:
Designer Nicolas di Felice is on a hot streak at revitalized fashion house Courrèges, and the brand’s spring 2023 ready-to-wear show in a stark white space outside of Paris featured models in jewelry that was sparingly deployed and decidedly tough-feeling—think spiky ear cuffs and a white-metal ring set that covered so much skin, it was more a hand piece.
The jewelry takeaway: Pieces with volume and armor-esque impact feel especially au courant.
Jewelry at the Saint Laurent spring 2023 show was similarly bold, but used gleaming, high-gloss gold and polished woods instead of white metals. Models walked the runway wearing giant square-shaped gold button-style earrings—we spied a square Maltese cross, and plenty of iterations featuring a big center gem (pearl, etc.). Chunky wooden bangles were interspersed with equally voluminous gold cuffs, worn Wonder Woman-style on both wrists.
The jewelry takeaway: 1980s-era fashion is still too fun to ignore. That decade’s embrace of bold-gold jewelry continues to inspire designers and denote luxury (and good times!) for consumers.
Christian Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by French queen Catherine de Medici for the house’s spring collection. The jewelry certainly embodied historic regal vibes: Models donned a series of short and choker-length goth-y necklaces, including a filigree yellow gold style (possibly tied with black ribbon in the back), a pearl choker layering white and black pearls, and delicate black-metal chain lariats.
The jewelry takeaway: As voluminous, Minimalist jewelry heats up in the market, there will still be a call for more romantic pieces, especially from young jewelry lovers, who really dig historic-feeling styles.
Top photo of models behind the scenes at the Saint Laurent show courtesy @ysl