Behind the Design: Picchiotti’s Smashing Opal-and-Diamond ‘Red Titan’ Ring

There are many kinds of statement rings: cocktail styles topped by a biggie gem and voluminous rings swathed in dazzling ornamentation, among them. But it’s rare that a single ring possesses a super-wow gemstone and exceptionally beautiful and intricate decoration. The Red Titan ring, one of Picchiotti’s latest one-of-a-kind jewels, is such a ring.

Featuring an enormous square, emerald-cut diamond weighing in at a face-melting 17.75 cts., and precision-cut panels of Ethiopian opal that recollect the facets of a gem bordered by curving, diamond-set lines (3.3 cts. t.w.), the voluminous piece is part of the Italian jeweler’s assortment of one-off jewels—and ably shows off the finely honed skills the maison’s world-class artisans.

We caught up with Maria Carola, marketing director for the high-end jewelry brand, to discover the ideas and specialized labor that went into the ring’s creation.

The Zing Report: What inspired the ring’s design?

Maria Carola: The large diamond itself inspired the design. It is a square emerald-cut diamond whose linear proportions inspired the sinuous curves of the ring construction as a contrast to the diamond’s linear facets.

How long did the ring take to fabricate?

It took about 8-10 weeks to create. As with every Picchiotti piece of jewelry, the whole manufacturing process, from the initial design concept to the final polishing, entirely took place at the company’s atelier in Valenza, Italy.

How many artisans worked on this ring?

As there are several steps in creating such a spectacular piece of jewelry, each specific artisan was responsible for his/her section: a designer, a gemstone cutter for the opal, a goldsmith, a setter, and a polisher.

The setting for the diamond looks so unusual—what were the big ideas behind that mounting? 

At Picchiotti, our specialty is superlative gems, so we will often find precious gems that dazzle us—either with their size, color, or cut—and then we let them stir our imaginations to create an incredible design.

Specifically, this design features an internal titanium structure that supports the entire ring. Titanium is a particularly strong metal. The structure is coated with 18k rose gold, enhanced by a very fine quality multicolored Ethiopian Opal, embellished with diamonds to accent the opals shapes or motifs, and of course, that square emerald-cut diamond weighing over 17 carats.

How are the sheets of opal set in the ring?

The opal sections were cut by the gemstone cutter in that special shape that you see, and then it was attached to the titanium mounting with a highly specialized process that includes jewelers’ adhesive.

Where is the diamond from? 

Although the diamond comes with two lab reports (GIA and HRD) the origin is not specified, so we cannot say with absolute certainty.

Where can people see or buy the piece? 

For retailers, the $796,500 ring can be purchased through Picchiotti USA in Atlanta (phone (404) 239-9900). Consumers can find a Picchiotti retailer near them using the GPS enabled located on the website picchiotti.it.

How do you feel about how it turned out, and who do you envision wearing this amazing piece?

We feel it is a truly unique ring and are proud of this remarkable piece of jewelry! It can be worn by a fashion lover, as well as by a woman with a more classic style. It is so special and distinctive that it really appeals to all jewelry lovers, especially connoisseurs and collectors.

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